The Ultimate Gear Guide

Overnight Tours

Dawn, Argentiere Glacier and Les Droites, with Mount Dolent and the Argentiere hut just visible on the far left of the image (photo: David Hewett)

 
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⎪OVERNIGHT TOURS AND TECHNICAL OBJECTIVES


Additional gear required for overnight trips and more serious objectives (17 items). When added to 33 DAY TRIP essentials, there are 50 items in total. For MULTI-DAY expeditions and/or glacier travel scroll down, or click on the corresponding buttons below. For a packing checklist (so you don’t forget anything), click here. Note: Some of these items can overlap between categories depending on the objective. Study the route/weather. Anticipate what gear you might need, and what you can safely leave behind. Pack smart.





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34. Ski Skin Waterproofing Treatment

Highly recommended for spring/late winter tours. Minimizes wet skins and increases glide without losing grip.

RECOMMENDATION: Nikwax Ski Skin Proof 

35. Rope Clamp

(for use as a rope ascender or capture device in a hauling/rescue system)

RECOMMENDATION: Petzl Tibloc Rope Clamp 

36. Binoculars (optional)

KEY FEATURES: compact, lightweight, waterproof, fogproof, high glass quality, consider how magnification affects field of view

SUGGESTIONS: Nikon Trailblazer ATB Waterproof 8 x 25 or Nikon Trailblazer ATB Waterproof 10 x 25 

37. Boot Crampons

KEY FEATURES: lightweight, durable, sharp, conforms to boot (and stays on!)

SUGGESTION: Skis: Petzl Irvis Hybrid Crampons; Splitboard: Petzl Irvis FlexlockBlack Diamond Crampon Bag

38. Ski Crampons

KEY FEATURES: lightweight, durable, sharp edges, about 10-15mm wider than ski, no more. Store properly.

SUGGESTION: Skitrab Ski Crampons; Dynafit Ski Crampons; Voile Splitboard Crampon; Spark R&D Ibex Pro Splitboard Crampon 

39. Ice Screws (1-3, depending on objective/terrain)

KEY FEATURES: Stainless steel hanger, large crank knob, color coded crank; 16cm is most versatile; 13cm is useful for hard and/or thin ice; 19/22cm is best for building V-threads

RECOMMENDATIONS:
Black Diamond Express Ice Screw; Petzl Laser Speed Ice Screw

40. Pitons (set of 3-5)

Black Diamond Knife Blade Pitons; Black Diamond Pecker Pitons; Black Diamond Bugaboo Pitons 

41. Nuts (set of 6 or 7)

SUGGESTION: Black Diamond Stopper Set Classic

42. Cams (2-3, depending on objective/terrain)

SUGGESTIONS: Trango FlexCam Cams – Set of 4; Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight 

43. V-thread Tool

SUGGESTION: Petzl Multihook 

44. Tagline[6] (or the Beal Escaper)

KEY FEATURES: durable, lightweight, compact

RECOMMENDATION
: Sterling 5.4 V-TX High Tenacity (60m); Beal Escaper 

45. Headlamp

KEY FEATURES: lithium battery powered, multiple settings, lightweight

SUGGESTIONS:
Petzl Tactikka Core Headlamp; Black Diamond Storm 400

46. Maps

portable, waterproof, topographic contour lines, GPS-compatible UTM grid lines and coordinates 

47. Analog Compass (with mirror)

SUGGESTION: Suunto MC-2G Navigator Compass

48. Emergency Bivouac and/or Tarp

SUGGESTIONS: REI Co-op Shell Bivy; SOL Thermal Bivy; SOL Escape Pro Bivy; Hyperlite Mountain Gear Flat Tarp; REI Co-op Quarter Dome SL Tarp

49. Portable Charger

SUGGESTIONS: Goal Zero Venture 70 Power Bank; Celestron Elements ThermoCharge 10 Power Pack and Hand Warmer 

50. Extra Batteries (for avalanche transceiver, headlamp, radio)

Transceiver/radio: any brand name alkaline with an LR03 stamp. Headlamp: headlamps with lithium batteries last longer, are lighter, work better in cold, and provide 100% power until dead. Storage: Cover the ends with electrical tape and stack together like logs; if the ends touch (or come into contact with any other metal) they will drain precipitously.



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GLACIER TRAVEL, TECHNICAL ROUTES, AND MULTI-DAY EXPEDITIONS

Technical Mountaineering Ice Axe (X2)

RECOMMENDATIONS: ultra-light alpine ice axe with steel head and hammer (suggested: one with hammer for placing pitons/one with adze): Petzl Gully; Black Diamond Venom

Spine Protector (optional)

SUGGESTION: POC Spine VPD System Vest 

Micro Traction Pulley

SUGGESTION: Petzl Micro Traxion 

Crevasse Rescue Pulley (optional)

SUGGESTION: Petzl Partner Pulley 

Snow Picket/Deadman (optional)

SUGGESTIONS: SMC I Snow Picket; SMC Snow Anchor; DMM Deadman Snow Anchor
Other options in the case of an emergency: ice axe; backpack; skis; snowboard; ski poles; a VERY SOLID piece of dry wood (use with caution/practice).

Wiregate Nut Tool (optional)

SUGGESTION: Metolius Feather Nut Tool

Ski Binding Leash (optional)

SUGGESTION: Dynafit Guide Leash

Radio

KEY FEATURES: Rechargeable, compact, lightweight, water resistant, belt clips
SUGGESTIONS: Motorola T600 H20 2-Way Radio; Midland TT61VP3 36-Channel GMRS 2-Way Radios with Charger

Satellite Phone (optional)

RECOMMENDATION: Garmin inReach Mini2 (compact, lightweight, Iridium satellite coverage, cell phone compatibility, weather data, built-in GPS, powered by lithium batteries) 

Camera (optional)

KEY FEATURES: Portable, compact, lightweight, water resistant, high dynamic range, image stabilization, optical zoom

Expedition Pack

KEY FEATURES: (See above) Large enough for all gear to fit inside including shovel, probe, sleeping bag, tent, water bottles, food. (foam sleeping pad can be fastened on toutside). Patagonia Ascensionist 55; Arc’teryx Alpha AR 55 

Down Sleeping Bag (with compression sack)

0° to +15° F spring/summer (May-July): Mountain Hardwear Phantom Alpine 15; REI Magma 15

0° F min in winter (Oct-Apr): Mountain Hardwear Phantom 0; Mountain Hardwear Bishop Pass 0;

-20° to -40° F with Gore-Tex type outer fabric for cold Arctic trips/high altitude: Mountain Hardwear Phantom GORE-TEX -40; 

Sleeping Pads

KEY FEATURES: closed cell foam pad, durable, packable, high R-value (4.0 and above)
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Xtherm; Therm-a-Rest Trail Pro 

Bowl, Spoon, Mug

Ultralight, non-breakable: Snow Peak Titanium; Snow Peak Titanium Spork; mug is not necessary but nice for hot drinks: Snow Peak Titanium Double Wall 450 Mug; no fork or knife needed.

Backpacking Stove

Ultralight, packable, adjustable valve: Snow Peak LiteMax Stove; MSR PocketRocket Deluxe Stove

Food

Easy to eat, high in fat and calories: nut (cashews are optimal), fruit and chocolate trail mixes, PB & J sandwiches with whole grain bread, nutrition bars, dark chocolate; Shot Bloks or GU gels with caffeine for energy; herbal tea (at night) and caffeinated tea or coffee (mornings). Store in a small stuff sack. Pack enough for all planned days (about 2,000+ calories per day) plus a little extra for emergencies. For healthy, sustainable, responsibly sourced travel food, consider these options from Patagonia Provisions.

Toiletries/Meds

Toilet Paper, Dr. Bronner's Organic Hand Sanitizer, Toothbrush, Dr. Bronner's Travel Toothpaste, Floss, Feminine Products, Dr. Bronner's Organic Liquid Soap, applicable and appropriate prescription medications (Important: check with your physician for use in the backcountry and at elevation)

Pee Bottle/Pee Funnel (optional)

Sani-Fem Freshette for women; Nalgene Ultralite Wide-Mouth Water Bottle for men

Zip-Lock Bags

Freezer quality, for toilet paper storage, extra socks, electronics, food, etc.

Mini Lighter + Waterproof Matches 




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Important Gear Considerations


Weight—Durability—Necessity—Applicability



Match your gear selection to the requirements of your objective. Extra weight can not only hinder the completion of your objective, it can also compromise your safety. Pack smart and pack light. But be conservative.

 


FOOTNOTES

[1] Know how to use avalanche safety equipment properly BEFORE venturing into the backcountry. For information on avalanche education and training contact the American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education: AIARE

[2] Ski mountaineering doesn’t typically generate the same fall forces that traditional climbing does, so ski mountaineers can get away with carrying a lighter rope. Most ski ropes are 30-60m, 8mm half or twin ropes. However, ropes smaller in diameter than 9.4mm do not have sufficient fall/impact force ratings for leader falls, and are NOT suitable for top rope, crag, sport, or big wall climbing. Also, smaller diameter ropes can be difficult to handle, tangle easily, and tend to be less durable. Choose wisely.

[3] A Munter Hitch is adjustable knot used primarily for belaying a partner when an ATC style belay device is not available. It requires the use of a ‘pear shaped’ HMS locking carabiner for optimal function. 

[4] Dyneema (also known as Spectra or Dynex) is incredibly strong for its weight and is more abrasion and cut-resistant than nylon. Slings made of Dyneema fold up very small so racking is easy, especially 60cm slings racked as extendable quickdraws. Due to their thin diameter, they can be threaded through small gaps where nylon slings are too fat to fit, and are great for tying-off pitons. Dyneema doesn't absorb much water, making them a smarter choice for winter climbing, as nylon slings tend to freeze.

[5] The diameter of your prusik cord should be 60% to 80% of the rope’s diameter, whether you are using the prussik on one rope or two. If you use a cord that is too thin, it will tighten easily around the rope and will be difficult to move freely. If you use a cord that is too thick, it won’t have enough friction to lock on the rope when you need it to.

[6] Taglines (Also called “pull cords” or “rap lines”) are used primarily for doubling with a single rope to make long, full-length rappels when only one conventional mountaineering or climbing rope is available. Note: this is an advanced mountaineering technique; use with caution and proper training/practice.

*basic ski-mountaineering setup in complex and/or glaciated terrain


CAUTION 

THE BIGGEST LINES IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR INJURY OR LOSS OF ANY KIND. ANYONE ATTEMPTING THE ROUTES LISTED HERE OR USING ANY OF THE SUGGESTED OR RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT IS SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR THEIR OWN SAFETY.

BE PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY PREPARED. BE PROPERLY EQUIPPED. SEEK PROFESSIONAL GUIDANCE AND/OR INSTRUCTION ON TECHNIQUE, METHODOLOGY, SAFETY PROTOCOL, AND PROPER EQUIPMENT USE.

MONITOR THE WEATHER. TRAVEL WITH A CAPABLE AND TRUSTED PARTNER. USE GOOD JUDGEMENT. BE READY TO TURN BACK IF THE OBJECTIVE BECOMES TOO CHALLENGING, OR IF CONDITIONS BECOME DANGEROUS. LIVE TO SKI ANOTHER DAY.


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